Hakone is the classic escape from Tokyo: a volcanic national park 90 minutes away with hot springs, a lake with a view of Mount Fuji, a ropeway over an active sulphur field, and the kind of quiet that Tokyo simply does not have. It is doable as a long day trip, but many travellers extend it to an overnight stay once they get there.
Here is everything you need to plan it well.
How to Get to Hakone from Tokyo
Odakyu's limited express "Romance Car" runs directly from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in about 85 minutes. Reserved seating, large windows, and no transfers. Fare: approximately ¥2,470 (reserved seat) + ¥950 base.
Book in advance at Shinjuku Station Odakyu ticket office or via the Odakyu app.
Take the JR Tokaido Line from Tokyo Station to Odawara (about 50 min, ¥1,520 with IC card). At Odawara, transfer to the Hakone Tozan Line to Hakone-Yumoto (15 min, ¥330). No reserved seat required.
Note: JR Pass covers the Tokyo–Odawara leg but not the Odakyu Romance Car or Hakone Tozan Line.
The Hakone Free Pass (¥7,100 for a 2-day adult pass from Shinjuku) bundles round-trip transportation between Shinjuku and Odawara with unlimited rides on every form of transport inside the Hakone area: Hakone Tozan Train, Hakone Tozan Cable Car, Hakone Ropeway, Hakone Cruise boat on Lake Ashi, and local buses. It also includes discounts at museums and some onsen. For a day trip covering multiple sights, it almost always saves money. Buy at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Centre in Shinjuku Station.
Suggested Day Itinerary
Mt Fuji Views from Hakone
Fuji is visible from Hakone roughly 80–100 days per year. The mountain is most visible in winter (December–February) after cold fronts clear the air. In October, views are possible but less reliable than winter — clouds often obscure the summit by mid-morning.
Best viewing spots
- Owakudani Ropeway: Unobstructed north-facing view of Fuji at altitude. Go early — clouds build from mid-morning.
- Lake Ashi (Moto-Hakone shore): Classic low-angle view of Fuji reflected in the lake. The cedar avenue at Moto-Hakone frames the shot.
- Hakone Shrine torii gate: The red torii at water level with Fuji in the background on a clear morning — one of Japan's iconic photographs.
Search "富士山 今日" (Mt Fuji today) on Twitter/X for real-time reports from visitors. The Hakone Tourism website also posts a Fuji visibility calendar. If the forecast shows cloud cover over the Hakone area, your chances of seeing Fuji are low — consider rescheduling if you can.
Onsen in Hakone
Popular day-use onsen facility near Hakone-Yumoto. Multiple indoor and outdoor baths, some with river views. Day entry from ¥1,500. No tattoo restrictions — unusual for onsen facilities. Towel rental available.
Free public foot baths (足湯) are dotted throughout the town. No changing required — roll up your trousers and soak your feet in genuine hot spring water. A good first onsen experience for those hesitant about full bathing.
Staying at a ryokan with a rotenburo (outdoor onsen bath) is the highlight of an overnight Hakone trip. Budget ¥20,000–50,000 per person per night including kaiseki dinner and breakfast. Ryuguden (Lake Ashi) and Fujiya Hotel (Miyanoshita) are historic options.
Most traditional onsen facilities in Hakone prohibit tattoos, as is common throughout Japan. Day-use facilities like Tenzan Tohji-kyo are exceptions. If you have tattoos, check the specific facility's policy before visiting — some larger hotel spas have private bath rental (家族風呂, kazoku-buro) which is always available regardless of tattoos.
Day Trip vs Overnight Stay
Hakone is feasible as a day trip, but an overnight stay changes the experience entirely:
- Day trip: You cover the main sights — Owakudani, Lake Ashi, Hakone Shrine. Satisfying, but rushed. Best if Tokyo is your base and you have limited time.
- Overnight: You arrive before the day-trip crowds, soak in the outdoor bath at sunset or dawn, wake up to a still morning view of Fuji, and enjoy a full kaiseki dinner. The experience has a completely different quality. One night is enough.
FAQ
Almost always yes for day trippers. The pass (¥7,100 from Shinjuku, 2-day) covers round-trip transport plus unlimited rides on Hakone Tozan Train, ropeway, and cruise. If you do the full loop — Hakone-Yumoto → Gora → Owakudani → Lake Ashi → Moto-Hakone → Hakone-Yumoto — paying separately would cost more than the pass.
October–November for autumn colours, March–May for new growth and cherry blossoms, and January–February for the highest chance of clear Fuji views. October is a good compromise: autumn foliage begins in the higher elevations, Fuji visibility is fair, and crowds are smaller than peak summer.
Partially. The JR Pass covers the Shinkansen or JR Tokaido Line to Odawara, but not the Odakyu Romance Car, Hakone Tozan Train, ropeway, or cruise. For everything inside the Hakone area, you need either the Hakone Free Pass or separate tickets. The Free Pass is usually cheaper than buying individual tickets.